Sunday, May 19, 2013

Art, Architecture and History Walk #1 - Mineral Palace to Tuxedo via 17th Street

Drop-off: 15th and Santa Fe - Mineral Palace Gardens
Pick-up:  18th and Tuxedo

     There are many famous locations in Pueblo, Colorado that are practically iconic when showing turn of the twentieth century Colorado.  Grand Avenue, Santa Fe Avenue and Elizabeth Street are perfect examples of classic historical Pueblo.  Stately manors and gardens line these streets and one can not help but be struck by the beauty and grandeur of these areas.

     It should be noted, however, that the history of this beautiful city is not entirely confined to the spectacular dwellings of the wealthy of yesteryear.  17th Street is a perfect example of this:  It allows us to walk through two Pueblos, if you would.  There is the Pueblo of  marble, concrete, brick and bronze, and there is the Pueblo of wood, stucco and spray paint.  Each is equally beautiful, and each is equally significant for both the past and the present.


     Pueblo is a city of valor.  The call of duty has sounded several times since the foundation of this city, and the young men and women of the region were quick to answer that call.  There are more Medal of Honor recipients here than almost anywhere else in the United States.  What can I say?  The heat and the hard work were the perfect forge for fighting men.

  It is with this in mind that we start our walk at the Lake Clara Bridge in Mineral Palace Gardens. This bridge has been dedicated to all veterans of all armed forces.  Little did they know when they were building it that another world war was about to break out.  At one time, Mineral Palace was the home of the Colorado State Fair.  To be honest, though, the history is everywhere, and I'm trying to tell you about the walk.

     The Gardens are a day unto themselves.  There is enough to check out both there and in the immediate vicinity to keep a person busy for quite some time.  That said, cut through the center of the park and make your way toward the mouth of 17th Street.  There's a statue of a lady in the middle of the park you can use as a landmark.  Pay her a visit on your way through and keep heading toward the west.  This is the gilded Pueblo.  The one of marble and bronze.  As you head west on 17th through the Parkview Hospital Campus, you'll notice beautiful homes and gardens from the late 1800's and early 1900's.  It is almost impossible to capture this through photography.  I will share a few of my feeble attempts, but the simple fact is, if you want to fully appreciate the beauty of the area, you've gotta take a walk.

     Parkview itself is a spectacular blend of several periods of Pueblo history.  There is a Swiss chalet-style building that is attached to a brick monster that is attached to a steel bridge that is attached to a parking garage.  It's easy to just dismiss the entire area as a typical hospital campus, but closer examination reveals an amalgamation of styles and techniques that you may not find anywhere else.


What you see here is just one jewel in the crown of Pueblo.  As you work your way west, we find our
way from the crown into the body.  There are classic structures and landscapes lining this portion of 17th, and they work their way up the in in increasing grandeur and then find their way in a smooth gradient towards the humble yet beautiful homes of working class Pueblo.  This area is a photographer's dream and nightmare all at once.  You find compelling images everywhere you look, but there are a dozen obstacles to framing the perfect shot.  Everything from respecting the privacy of the neighbors to the scorching sun and fast fall-off shadows will have you planning future trips when the light, vegetation and people are right.

     Once you pass this marble wonder, you'll see the gradient from big bucks to

normal people from the top of the hill.  In less than ten minutes, you'll go from the heights to the hood.  One thing you'll see, though, is the soul of a resilient people doing their best to make their little corner of the world more beautiful.  As the houses get tinier and tinier, the attention to detail doesn't change.  You can see that the hands that worked the marble and the steel lived right down the way, and they lent the palatial beauty of the large structures to their homes and neighborhoods.

     You see the same pride as you see on Grand Ave mixed with the whimsy of people of less pretension.  This is the Pueblo of wood and stucco.  To me, the tiny house to the right is of almost greater historical significance than all of the big stuff downtown.  These are the architectural styles of the people.  Here is the art of the majority of the populace, and here is a history that may not all be as well
preserved as some of the more celebrated areas of town.  Here is a history that our generations will bear witness to but our great grand children may never get to see.

     Keep heading west on 17th Street until you get to Hooper Avenue, and you will be greeted by the fine art of the new world.  Academics don't yet have names for the techniques at work here, but that doesn't reduce the artistry one bit.  In fact, one could say that Rembrandt and his methods have been so strongly copied and codified that the actual soul of the art has been lost.  What you see is the hip-hop of the painting world.  Lyricism and rhythm are put to color and held in one place to move the hearts and minds of any who would are to open up to the artistry.


     Graffiti lovers from Colorado ought to know about 'creatures'.  Graffiti haters
probably do, too.  The work of this legendary collective in on bold display on this corner, and it is worth seeing no matter what your aesthetic preferences are.  The use of color and shading absolutely boggles the mind, and the mutations that the alphabet can undergo are as refreshing as they are confusing.

     If you got dropped off for the walk, this is a good time to call your ride and have them start heading toward the corner of 18th and Tuxedo.

     Once you unglue your eyes from the awesomeness that is this area, make your way north on Hooper Avenue until you get to 18th Street.  Take 18th Street south until you cross the railroad bridge, and take a minute to reflect on everything you see from up there.  To the distance in the south, you can past the rail yard and on to the steel mill.  You can see the dense foliage that marks the Arkansas river, and beyond that the Wet Mountains.  Pan your eyes to the north, and you can see the Mosquito Range and the Pike's Peak Massif.

     This combination of features is what caused people to build the city here, and it is also what almost made this place the capitol of Colorado.  It's also what makes Pueblo such a cool place to live right now.  The steel mill is not only one of the largest employers in the region, it is now also one of the largest recyclers in the western United States.  The railroad is another old world relic that is once again becoming the wave of the future.


     By the time you get done soaking up the view, your ride should have arrived at the corner of 18th and Tuxedo, which is a short walk down the west end of the bridge.  If you left your car at Mineral Palace and you're up for a few extra miles, try taking Tuxedo north until it ends and zig-zag your way north and east to 29th Street.  From there, head east to Elizabeth and south back to Mineral Palace.  It's a long walk, but it will bring you through 150 years and a ton of different ways of life.

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